One of the largest parks in central Paris at 63 acres, the Jardin des Tuileries (Tuileries Gardens) was once part of a palace connected to the Louvre. The building was burned down to its masonry shell in 1871 during the violent Commune uprising. The resulting ruins were finally demolished in 1882, opening up an unbroken vista from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe (and now on to the Grand Arch of La Défense). The Jardin des Tuileries, which border the Right Bank of the Seine, offers numerous classic and modern sculptures, large water basins, flowerbeds, wild birds – and a good view of the Place de la Concorde at its western edge. Because of its strict rectangular shape and straight lines of city buildings along its perimeter, it is often called the “Central Park” of Paris.

In the early 16th century this area was a clay tile factory (tuileries = tiles). After the death of her husband Henri II in 1559, Catherine de Médicis had a palace built here, called le Palais de Tuileries, which featured a large garden in Italian style, reminding her of her native Tuscany. Note: she hated to cave to French tastes in any facet of her life; she ordered all of her clothes from Mantua.

Between 1660 and 1664 the garden was redesigned in French formal style by Le Nôtre, the celebrated gardener of King Louis XIV. Le Nôtre built a terrace along the riverbank and opened up a central axis which he extended three years later with the creation of the Champs-Elysées. Louis XIV and his court resided at the Tuileries Palace during the time that Versailles was still under construction.

The Jardin des Tuileries, opened to the public by Louis XIV upon his move to Versailles, quickly became a place to see and be seen. Even in the 18th century the park featured amenities such as cafés, kiosks, deck chairs and public toilets. These days temporary exhibits of sculpture contrast to the classic ones installed centuries ago, some of them quite risqué and even erotic. Henry Miller used to walk the paths of the Tuileries frequently during the 1920s, and he was particularly fond of the statues of sensual females. He claimed he got an erection every time he walked past them.

Experienced traveler tip: The paths throughout the expanse of gardens will leave a white dusty coating all over your shoes. Every time. Be prepared and bring a Handi-Wipe to do a little cosmetic clean up after your walk. Go ahead – thank me.

Experienced traveler tip #2: There are cafés in the middle of the gardens, but tourists have to truck all the way to the Place de la Concorde exit to find toilets (bring coins). Gentlemen on the left as you face the Place de la Concorde. Don’t ask me how I know this.